Is Gozo Homer’s Ogygia?

A trip to Gozo and Homer’s Work

Some say Gozo is none other than Homer’s idyllic island of Ogygia, mentioned in the Odyssey. The cave near Ramla Bay is also thought to be where the beautiful nymph Calypso kept Odysseus prisoner for seven years. What is certain is that Gozo is an island of contrasts, sitting just a short ferry ride from Malta.

Gozo seems to have it all: green fields, arid limestone outcrops and villages with winding streets where time seems to stand still; the bustling historical and cultural city of Rabat; beaches that range from the red sands of Ramla Bay to the rocky shore of Xlendi; the national shrine of Ta’Pinu; two bronze age temples at Ggantija; saltpans at Xwejni; and various lookout points with stunning panoramic views. It’s also a paradise for scuba divers.

So, one sunny Saturday morning, a small group of Maltalingua students and their tour guide set off for Ċirkewwa. We drove up to the north of Malta, past the saltpans in Qawra, which our guide told us had been important back in Roman times and still produce salt today, and past vineyards whose grapes go into the rather palatable Maltese wines, arriving in time for an early ferry to Gozo. The crossing over the Gozo channel to Mġarr took us past the island of Comino, and then Mġarr came into view with the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes standing on the promontory above the harbour.

Mgarr’s Countryside and Dwerja Bay are popular places to visit in Gozo

A short drive across greener countryside from Mgarr, through villages with limestone houses, brought us to our first stop, Dwerja. It was a blustery day, so everyone scrambled over the rocks to watch the waves pounding against the sheer limestone cliffs.

In the distance we could see the tower, one of several dotted around Gozo and Malta, which in olden times served as lookouts, as both islands were often raided by corsairs. These days the towers are managed by the National Trust of Malta (Din l-Art Ħelwa). The tower at Dwerja was recently restored thanks to European funds from the Malta Tourism Authority.

Dwerja is popular with scuba divers because of the clarity of the water and the variety of marine life. The Blue Hole, for instance, is about 15 metres deep with an underwater window leading out into the open sea. Its walls are covered in sponges, colourful coral, tubeworms and other marine life.

From Dwerja we carried on to Rabat, where we explored the Citadella with its 360° views across Gozo.

Did you know that Rabat, also known as Victoria, was named in 1897 in honour of the British monarch to mark her Jubilee?

The village of Xlendi, Calypso’s Cave and Ramla Bay – A must see!

After wandering the winding streets of Rabat, we drove down through the valley to Xlendi. We all loved the unexpected beauty of the cliffs on either side of this narrow creek. There was another tower on the headland, which we had time to walk to, though most students couldn’t resist the idea of a winter swim. Xlendi is popular with locals and tourists alike. Its sandy beach is tiny, with most people swimming off the ladders into the deeper water, which is very salty and wonderfully buoyant. The sea was rather choppy, but some intrepid Maltaingua students jumped in from the diving board. Martin from Germany was one of them, watched by his wife Anika. She decided to save that for another time and sat on the steps as the sea rose and fell over her. Quite refreshing, especially when their own country was in the depths of winter. Olivier from Paris took the chance to catch some winter sun, relaxing on his Malta souvenir towel. ‘ I really enjoyed my time at Maltalingua and going on excursions.’

From Xlendi it was time to head to Calypso’s Cave and look out over Ramla Bay, an unusual beach with red sand, apparently due to the high iron content in the rocks that eroded over the centuries to form it. For anyone planning a return trip, and many of our Maltalingua students do come back year after year, it’s worth knowing that in summer Ramla Bay has lifeguards, sun loungers for hire and a few decent eateries behind the beach. In winter, though, it’s a peaceful, almost deserted spot for anyone who loves to walk or run beside the sea.

Students standing on top of Calypso’s Cave

Was Calypso’s Cave really where Odysseus spent seven years as a prisoner of Calypso’s love, before Zeus stepped in and he could begin the long voyage home to his wife Penelope? Who can ever really say?

After taking in the views over Ramla Bay, we drove to Ghajnsielem for one last panorama of Malta and Comino. Then it was time to head back, so we reluctantly made our way down to Mgarr for the ferry to Malta. So, Gozo, we will see you again!

Author: Gillian Pritchett (CELTA) – read her profile on Maltalingua’s website.